How to sew a French seam

Filed under: On Pins, Tutorials — Cyndi at 7:05 am on Thursday, July 13, 2006

I worked on Cabo a bit last night, up until Project Runway came on TV, at which time I sat down on the couch and promptly fell asleep. Oops! Thank goodness for the DVR.

As I was sewing Cabo, I realized the instructions called for finishing the seams with a zig-zag stitch - after I had sewn the seams, of course. Personally, I dislike how this looks as a seam finish. It makes the garment look homemade. Of course, no one will generally see the inside of your garment but you, so it really doesn’t matter. But, you know me… I’m a bit on the obsessive compulsive side when it comes to my crafts. I decided to rip the seam and use french seams instead. For those new to french seams, I’ve posted a tutorial below.

How to sew a French Seam

1. Pin fabric with WRONG sides together. This is not intuitive at first, but trust me.

FrenchSeam1.jpg

2. Sew a narrow seam. For a 5/8″ seam allowance, I like to use a 1/4″ seam. For a 1/2″ seam allowance, I do slightly less than 1/4″ (approx. 1/8″) seam.

FrenchSeam2.jpg

The completed narrow seam. Note that at this point, you may optionally choose to trim the seam allowance to 1/8″ to ensure that it does not show on the right side the completed seam.

FrenchSeam3.jpg

3. Press the narrow seam to one side.

FrenchSeam4.jpg

4. Fold fabric with right sides together and press at seam.

FrenchSeam5.jpg

5. Sew a second narrow seam with wrong sides together. For a 5/8″ seam allowance, sew a 3/8″ seam (3/8 + 1/4 = 5/8″). For a 1/2″ seam allowance, sew a 3/8″ seam (3/8 + 1/8 = 1/2″).

FrenchSeam6.jpg

6. Press the completed French seam to one side.

FrenchSeam7.jpg

7. A completed French seam, from the wrong side…

FrenchSeam8.jpg

And from the right side…

FrenchSeam9.jpg

7 Comments »

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Comment by Stephanie

July 13, 2006 @ 7:27 am

Oh wow. That’s fabulous. I am definitely going to use that method on my next project. I wish I’d known about it before.

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Comment by Angela

July 13, 2006 @ 9:14 am

Yahoooo! Thank looks so perfect! Will definitely use that on the rest of my projects.

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Comment by Ashley

July 13, 2006 @ 10:36 am

The exact dialogue I had in my head last night as I was falling asleep: “If I’m going to make a pillowcase, I’m going to need to do French seams. I wonder how I do French seams? Hmm. Well, the Internets will show me how.” And they did! Thanks for the tute!

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Comment by ruth

July 13, 2006 @ 11:13 am

yay! thanks for the tutorial! and thanks for the visit to my new site. and you’re right - i hadn’t figured out the email notification thing, until NOW. it finally works! =D

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Comment by Ruth

July 13, 2006 @ 11:15 am

p.s. if you get around to watching that first Project Runway episode from last night, let me know what you think. there’s one guy in there that i find incredibly slimy. =)

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